THE CENTERIAN hand-tap tattoo artist Apo Whang-od is a living cultural treasure from Kalinga, Philippines, who has single-handedly transformed global heritage tourism. Deep in the mist-shrouded Cordillera mountains, a tiny village of stone and thatch holds the world’s most exclusive ink. Buscalan, once a remote tribal outpost known only to intrepid mountaineers, is now the epicentre of a global tourism phenomenon.  At the heart of this movement is Apo Whang-od, a centenarian traditional tattoo artist, or mambabatok,...